Kjölur: the F35 track

The F35 track is one of the two main inland trails crossing Iceland from the Golden Circle to the northern coast. The trail starts from Gullfoss and runs due north to Blonduós for about 200 km.

The other major crossing, the Sprengisandur (F26), is more difficult and involves river fords, whereas the F35 has none. That is what makes the Kjölur the more accessible of the two.

Even with no ford to cross this trail is now numbered road 35 (formerly the F35) and is no longer classified as an F trail, but most rental companies prohibit 2WD vehicles on the Kjölur, so a 4x4 is in practice required by your rental contract, so be sure to have the green light from your rental company before you start on the F35. Another key preparation point before hitting the road is to check the road condition on Vegagerdin, updated several times a day.

Like all interior trails, the F35 is seasonal: it is closed in winter and spring. It is usually one of the first highland roads to open, between late May and mid-June depending on snow cover (around the beginning of June on average according to Vegagerdin records), and it closes in autumn, in October or November depending on the weather. Dates change every year, so always check the road status before you go. July and August are the safest months.

• The F35 into the highland deserts
• Things to see along the Kjölur

The F35 into the highland deserts

Historically, the F35 Kjolur trail was in fact used as early as the year 1000 by northern Vikings to reach the Golden Circle and in particular the Thingvellir parliament.

Don't expect to encounter villages or even inhabitants along this trail. This is a desert. There is literally nothing there, not even a gas station, so be sure to leave with a full tank when you start this journey. The trail itself is very rocky in places, but you can be sure it won't be crowded! While the trail never gets to really technical levels, it is slow going and you should not expect to exceed 40 km/h.

A few habits to adopt on this kind of trail:

• slow down when a vehicle approaches and keep a good distance behind the one in front: flying gravel is the main cause of damage to rental cars;
• check with your rental company that gravel protection is included, as underbody and water damage are rarely covered;
• if a pothole is full of water, get out and check its depth before crossing. If it is too deep, turn back: leaving the track to go around it is illegal.

Not to mention the various stops... It will still take 4 to 5 hours to get from Gullfoss to Blonduos in the north, but it is one of the most beautiful trails in the highlands, and you will be taking photo breaks all the time.

Fill up near Gullfoss (or at Geysir) if you start from the south, and at Blönduós or Varmahlíð if you start from the north. Also bring your supplies with you: the only services on the route are at Kerlingarfjöll (restaurant and lodging at the Highland Base) and Hveravellir (small café, toilets, shared kitchen, campsite and hut), at higher prices than elsewhere. For the night, sleeping in a vehicle is not allowed and wild camping is restricted in protected areas such as Hveravellir, so book an official campsite or lodging.

Shortly after Gullfoss, the asphalt gives way to dirt, stones, and some quite large potholes. Vegetation is then much rarer out here, and the magnificent barren landscape gives a real sense of being alone in the world.

The trail passes between two of the most important glaciers on the island: the Langjökull Glacier and Hofsjökull, but these are usually just part of the background as visitors usually take this trail to reach the Kerlingarfjöll Mountains.

Things to see along the Kjölur

The trail takes us past the black volcano Bláfell, then back down to the Hvitá valley that feeds the famous Gullfoss waterfall.

Lake Hvitárvatn

Lake Hvitárvatn (30 km²) is one of the largest glaciers in the country, located at the foot of Langjökull.

A short detour by exiting the F346 on the left will lead to the lake. Less than 50 km from Gullfoss, the lake is well known for its milky appearance due to the minerals carried by the Langjökull ice, and the contrast with the black sand that surrounds the lake is magnificent.

Some specialists offer glacier tours, which are superb on a clear day.

Continuing on the F35, the vegetation becomes more and more sparse, giving way to cairns in the heart of the highland desert.

Kerlingarfjöll and its hiking trails

About fifty kilometers further, you can reach the F347 trail, famous for leading to one of the most magical places on the island: Kerlingarfjöll.

For many, it is simply the most beautiful place to see in Iceland.

The hills of yellow and ocher rhyolites contrast with the white snow and black ash. Hiking trails are countless and there are shelters for travelers wishing to trek one or more nights in the wild.

Just after the junction between the F347 and the F35 is Gýgjarfoss, a gorgeous waterfall worth the detour before heading up to the Kerlingarfjöll mountains.

The hikes offered in Kerlingarfjöll range from short 1-2 hour hikes to full-day hikes. Hiking is a great way to take in the scenery, and this place has a lot of scenery to offer.

The Hveravellir oasis

The F35 is the trail to another essential stop on the road to the North: Hveravellir. This geothermal site famous for its mud pots, fumaroles, and hot springs is a great place to relax and there are camping grounds and shelters available.

Many tourists stop at Hveravellir to take a break from all the hiking by swimming in the 38 °C turquoise water with healing minerals. A delight you won't soon forget!

Preparing for the F35

• check the highland forecast on vedur.is: wind, rain and fog can sharply reduce visibility and turn the track to mud;
• mobile coverage is patchy, with large dead zones, so download offline maps;
• leave your travel plan on SafeTravel.is;
• you can drive for over half an hour without meeting anyone, so carry water, food and warm clothes, even in summer.