8°
30 June 2012North Iceland and Myvatn
More great weather today, 14 °C almost all day. According to the Vedur site, the weather would only get a bit cloudy in Akureyri that evening. The day's itinerary took us to Myvatn via Akureyri and its life-saving photo shop named “Pedro Myndir” so long awaited by my Canon camera (update: the shop has since closed for good, after 58 years in business)…
To reach our guesthouse on the road between Akureyri and Goðafoss, we decided to take roads 76 and 82 and the Siglufjördur, Ölafsfjörður, and Dalvik fjords. The drive was pleasant except for that terrifying single-lane tunnel that goes on for several kilometers (the Múlagöng, 3.4 km, road 82, between Dalvik and Ölafsfjörður; the Héðinsfjörður tunnels between Ölafsfjörður and Siglufjördur are two-lane). Typically Icelandic, this tunnel has oncoming traffic so you have to pull into a passing place on the side while waiting for the car in front to pass, a bit claustrophobic for me...
Good to know before you go in: on this route the single-lane tunnels are Strákagöng (about 800 m, near Siglufjörður) and Múlagöng (about 3.4 km, between Ólafsfjörður and Dalvík). Between them, the long Héðinsfjarðargöng tunnel (about 11 km, opened in 2010) is an easy drive. In a single-lane tunnel, passing places are built into the side: if one is on your right, you must pull in and let the oncoming vehicle pass. Keep your headlights on, respect the posted speed (there are speed cameras) and do not stop in the tunnel except in an emergency (112).
The fjords were impressive and we stopped at Dalvik to stock up on groceries at a “Bonús” shop. We then arrived in Akureyri a little before noon and it was finally time for me to go to Pedro Myndir which was...closed. It was Sunday after all (which we didn't think about being on vacation) so the shops, or at least most of them, were closed. I'd have to come back tomorrow. We stuck around Akureyri to eat at the “Bautin,” quite a nice spot and their mutton was very good.
Good to know: to get from Akureyri to Goðafoss on Route 1, you can now use the Vaðlaheiðargöng tunnel, which did not exist when this story took place and is Iceland's only toll tunnel. There is no toll booth: according to the official site (prices valid from 2 March 2026), a trip costs 2,216 ISK for a vehicle under 3.5 tonnes, paid online at veggjald.is or tunnel.is by entering the licence plate, up to 24 hours before or after the crossing. For a return trip, count two crossings.
From Goðafoss to Myvatn
Once we had eaten our fill and checked in at the Edda Hotel near Goðafoss, we left for Myvatn and the sites we knew by heart but wanted to see again: the colors of Namafjall, the walk in Krafla (Leirhnjukur), and the ascent of Vìti.
Planning these visits: at Hverir and Námafjall, allow about an hour and stay on the marked paths, as the ground is very hot in places. Krafla lies further north on Road 863: the Víti and Leirhnjúkur car parks are now paid (about 800 ISK per car in 2026, via the EasyPark app or the QR code on the signs, one ticket covering both car parks). The Leirhnjúkur loop takes 1 hour to 1 hour 45 depending on the version, and you should allow 2 to 3 hours for Krafla as a whole.
A swim at the Myvatn nature baths (Jardboðin) was well deserved. Far fewer people than at the Blue Lagoon, and incidentally much cheaper (2,800 kr at the time; the baths have since been rebuilt and renamed Earth Lagoon Mývatn, with admission from 7,900 kr). Basking in 38 °C water in the middle of this lunar landscape around Myvatn is really very special, I loved it.
Update: since this story, the Myvatn Nature Baths (Jarðböðin) closed in early 2026 for a complete rebuild and reopened in summer 2026 as Earth Lagoon Mývatn. According to the official site, adult entry starts from 7,900 ISK (Essential tier), the water stays between 36 and 40 °C, and there is a steam bath, a swim-up bar and a bistro. Posted hours are 12:00–22:00 daily from September 1st (check before you go). Swimsuit rental (1,100 ISK) and towel rental (1,200 ISK) are available. Full details in our article on the Myvatn Nature Baths.
In the evening we decided to eat at the Vogafjòs farm (cowshed café) where we had been back in 2006, a restaurant in the middle of the farm with the cows grazing next to you, quite unique. In 6 years, the restaurant had grown so much! There were no longer 1 but 6 servers, nearly 20 tables compared to 3 or 4 in 2006...
The food, and the particularly popular meal (Lax), were still as good as ever. Finally, on the way back, with the beautiful light of the day I decided to go to Goðafoss around 11:00PM to take a few photos in the crepuscular light. This waterfall was as beautiful as ever, and then, at this hour, it wasn't too crowded...
For your visit: Goðafoss has two car parks, one on each bank, both free at the time of writing (check the signs on arrival) and linked by a footbridge. Allow 30 to 60 minutes to see the falls from both sides. In winter, the paths can be icy even when the road is clear.
