10°
25 June 2006West Fjords
- Day: Sunday, June 25
- Weather: Grey, 8 °C
- Distance in kilometers: 600 km
Just outside of Arnarstapì, we stopped at the rocks of Svalþúfa - Thúfubjarg. The view was magnificent, and the huge black rock standing tall in the water reminded us of Treasure Island. We observed lots of birds, including guillemots, small black penguins perched on the cliffs.
Svalþúfa and Þúfubjarg are in the Snæfellsjökull National Park, right next to the Lóndrangar sea stacks. There is a car park and a viewpoint, so the stop is easy. The Þúfubjarg cliffs are full of seabirds, so binoculars are useful. If you have time, a marked trail of about 1 km round trip leads from the car park to Lóndrangar and back.
Taking the path that descended towards the famous boulders, we went to get a closer look. It was then that we came face to face with a family of Arctic foxes that had invested the volcanic stone cavities to create their burrows.
The little cubs were quite timid but also curious, eventually allowing us to photograph them. Afterward, we made another stop at Mount Helgafell. Legend has it that one had to climb this mountain facing straight ahead, without speaking or turning, and only turn east when you reach the ruins, which allows you to make three wishes.
Supposedly, if the ritual was properly performed, the wishes would come true... At this moment a little sheep, seemingly lost and in search of company, decided to tag along with us on our ascent to the ruins.
Helgafell: practical information
Helgafell is a small basalt mountain, 73 m high, just outside Stykkishólmur. To get there, take Helgafellsvegur from road 58; there is a car park at the foot of the mountain with toilets and bins. The easy path is about 500 m long with some steps, and the climb takes around 10 minutes. It is open all year, but check winter conditions before you go. The landowners ask for a small fee; the amount is shown on the sign at the car park.
At the top, a viewing disc and a pile of stones overlook Breiðafjörður bay and the Snæfellsnes mountains.
Latrabjarg puffin
Reaching the Westfjords by ferry
From Snæfellsnes you can reach the Westfjords without driving all the way around: the Baldur ferry crosses Breiðafjörður bay between Stykkishólmur and Brjánslækur, with a stop at the island of Flatey. The crossing takes about 2.5 hours and cars are carried, but you need to reserve a space in advance. Timetables change with the season (in winter, for example, there is no sailing on Saturdays), so check the ferry's website, ferja.is, before planning your day.
After this stop we headed for the Westfjords in the direction of Patreksfjörður. The road was rough but the landscapes absolutely superb. It was a pity that the weather was gray because on a clear day the colors must be sublime. After settling into our Guesthouse and enjoying a satisfying meal, we decided to venture out for the evening to Latrabjarg - the westernmost point in Europe and also the site of the highest cliffs in Europe.
These cliffs harbor a multitude of birds, especially puffins (present only from roughly May to August, with a peak in June-July). The road leading to the Latrabjarg cliffs was beautiful but in very poor condition. Upon arriving at the renowned cliffs, a bitter icy wind (3°) picked up, making our climb to the summit challenging. However, the effort was rewarded as we discovered hundreds of puffins that were not shy at all. Please note: Latrabjarg has been a nature reserve since March 2021; stay behind the barriers and on the marked paths, do not approach the birds (use a zoom lens), and remember that drones are not allowed without a permit.
On our way back towards Patreksförður, we made a stop at Rauðassandur, a beach of rather unusual orange sand. It was already midnight when we finally decided to head back to our Guesthouse. It had been a long day, and we had covered approximately 600 km from Arnarstapì.
